Here is the felted penguin, that you might call the prequel to the hedgehog I posted.
He is about 3 inches tall.
God bless,
Rebekah
My latest felt project is a cute little hedgehog. Or hedgepig, which I like the sound of. Hedgepig. Say it with me, Hedgepig! I intended to make an owl, but when I had made the body shape and covered the back with dark brown wool, I looked at him, and it just clicked that he looked like a hedgehog. So I made him into a hedgehog. He is about 2.5 inches tall.
He is a more cartoon-y style than I usually do. He is in the same style as a penguin I did last year, and those are the only 2 I’ve done in that style. I’ll be doing a post with pictures of that penguin soon! Thanks for reading! God bless, Rebekah
So, it seems Chloe was not pregnant. As you saw in the last post, she made a beautiful nest, right on schedule, and even gained about a pound.
But. No babies!
Bummer.
I waited until the 40th day after the 31 day pregnancy to be absolutely sure she was not pregnant. After that, I took the nestbox out and rebred her. The new due date is June 24, 2014!
Last time you saw the poppy field painting, there was almost no poppies in the field! Now I’ve finished the needle felting part, so I’ll post the photos of this process.
Step 1
First, using needle felting, I blocked out the shapes of the big foreground poppies, and added shadow from the trees on the distant poppy field.
In retrospect I should have also filled in the bare white areas of the green field.
Step 2
Here I’ve needle felted shading and more detail to the foreground poppies, reconstructed the the top right corner and right side, and added the midground poppies.
You could also embroider red french knots for the midground poppies instead of needle felting them.
Step 3
Here I worked on the distant poppy field and hills on the left, adding a little shading, a few trees and defining some rows in the field.
Step 4
Here I added poppies on the left side, added some green to the distant field, redirected the distant tree shadow, added a little lighter green to the dark trees, put some blue in the sky, and put some more poppies in the right side too.
Finished!
Thanks for reading my posts!
God Bless, Rebekah
Here’s a tutorial I’ve been working on for a while about how to build a wire cage. I’m building a larger cage than the regular size for expecting does and their litters.
This one is 4 ft long and 2 ft deep, custom made to fit the shelves I have. That’s probably the best thing about making your own cages, you can make it any size you want!
Here’s the Supplies:
Also, an important note:
Never use hardware cloth for the wire mesh! I used hardware cloth for the floor on my first cage, and I ended up having to rip off all the clips and re-cut and clip a new floor out of the 1x.5 in. wire. Hardware cloth is just not sturdy enough, very saggy, and doesn’t have large enough holes to let the droppings through, which means I would always be cleaning it.
Okay, step one is cutting a 7 foot long, 2 ft wide piece of the 1×1 inch wire.
This makes the top and end pieces of the cage.
Step two:
Measure 18 inches from both ends in toward the middle of the 7 ft length of wire and mark it with a Sharpie. Now Bend the 7 ft length of wire up at the 18 inches mark on both ends. Do. Not. Cut. The ceiling and the end pieces are all one piece! You can kneel on a wood 2×4 at the 18 inch mark and bend the wire against that, however a 2×4 is not absolutely necessary. This is where your hammer or mallet comes in handy. You can bend the wire against the 2×4 by tapping it lightly with the hammer until you get a good 90 degree angle. (Sorry, I don’t have pictures of this step. It’ll make more sense in the next few steps.)
Step 3
Now, cut two 4 ft long, 18 in wide panels out of the same 1×1 inch wire.
You cut the width of this panel the same height as the end pieces you just bent.
You bent the end pieces up 18 inches, therefore you cut the width of the side panels 18 inches too.
On one of the panels cut an opening for the door, but make sure that you have enough wire to make the door for it!
You can make the door whatever size you want (see? is custom made not great?), just don’t take so much wire out that the cage isn’t sturdy.
Now, I’ll introduce you to my favorite tool, the J-clip pliers!
Seriously, this is a fun little tool. I bought both my pliers and my j-clips on Amazon and I really like them.
I’ve also tried the kind Tractor Supply stores carry, but I dislike them. The pliers make lopsided clips, and the clips themselves are really hard to to clip.
The brand I got on Amazon is Pet Lodge Miller Manufacturing.
Okay, now place the clip in the pliers, with the curved end of the clip in the wide end of the pliers.
Now just line up the wire pieces you want to clip in the curved end of the clip and squeeze the pliers.
Easy!
Now you can use the pliers to put together your cage!
Step 4
Clip the side panels to the top and end piece. If you bent the end wall the same height as the side panels they should line up!
This is what your cage will look like with one side panel clipped on.
See how the top and end walls are all one piece? That’s what I mean by bending the end walls up.
Here’s the cage with both sides on and the door but no floor.
(and the the big bunny that likes to play in the cage 🙂 )
You can put the door on with J-clips as hinges. On my past cages I have put the door on the outside of the cage, swinging out, but with this one I tried putting the door on the inside of the cage swinging up into the cage. If you do it this way you’ll have to put the door on before you clip the side panel to the rest of the cage.
Step 5
Now the floor! Almost done! Cut a piece of the 1 x .5 inch wire 2 ft wide and 4 ft long.
Now, your wire probably came in a roll. And that means that your wire will want to curve the direction it was wrapped on the roll. So before you put the floor on, you’ll want to flatten the wire some, but leave a little curve in it. When you put the floor on, make sure that the curve bows up, into the cage, and this will help prevent sagging! If you accidentally put the floor on with the curve facing down, than your floor will already start to sag.
Step 6
Aaannd…. You have finished construction on you very own, custom made, all metal cage!!
Now for the finishing touches. You will want a latch for your door, and maybe you want to install a feeder!
One nice thing to have is door guards to put over the raw edges on the door frame, and you can get those door guards (and door latches, and everything else rabbit related!) at this link: http://www.bunnyrabbit.com/price/cagequip.htm.
For door latches, you can use dog leash or key ring clips, or make your own like I did with wire and j-clips.
This latch is pretty self explanatory, and it works quite well! I’ve used this style on my first cage that I made almost a year ago, and my bunny has never escaped from it.
Here’s the finished cage! (except the door latches)
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this post. If you enjoy these posts, click the “follow” button on the right and you will receive an email when I’ve posted something new.
God bless
Hello all! Here’s a new tutorial for you, how to make homemade bunny treats! I came across this idea recently and had to try it. (taa daa) My bunnies love these.
The Ingredients: (This recipe is easily halved or doubled)
-2 ripe bananas
-1 apple or 1 c applesauce
-2-3 carrots
-4 TB honey
-1/2 c oats
-1/2 c rabbit pellets
-1 c whole wheat flour
(If you are going to use an oven, preheat it to 300-325 F while you prepare the treats.)
Next, shove ’em all in the blender…
and blitz until a fairly smooth paste
Now lay a sheet of parchment paper (don’t use wax paper or it will stick) on your dehydrator sheet or cookie sheet
Put the dough on the parchment paper
Now, flatten the lump of dough a little bit, and lay another sheet of parchment over the dough.
Than roll out the dough to about a 1/4 inch thick with a rolling pin.
Now just bake or dehydrate your treats until they are a tad darker in color, and dried but still slightly pliable.
In my dehydrator, that took almost 5 hours, it will vary depending on your dehydrator or oven, and how moist your dough is.
(if you are using the oven, heat it to 300-325 F. If you are using a dehydrator, use the meat or jerky setting)
Keep checking on it until it looks right!
Now just cut the treats, and you’re done!
I keep a handful out with my feed supplies and keep the rest in the freezer.
Here I’ve made acorn ornaments in three colors, with bakers twine loops in different colors for hanging. I’ve taken pictures of most of the process, but this is just a quick intro, not too much detail here.
Here are the supplies:
Felted ball
Acorn caps
Bakers twine
Strong glue
Drill
Also, (not pictured) I drilled holes in all the acorn caps for the twine to go through.
First start by felting a large-ish marble sized ball, depending on the size of your acorn caps so the ball will fit in the acorn cap comfortably.Next, string a loop of bakers twine about 2-3 inches long through the hole in the acorn cap.
Now glue your ball into the acorn cap.
On Saturday I attempted hand painting a 50% alpaca/50% wool bulky yarn for the first time!
It turned out great! I used Jaquard acid dyes for this project. First I soaked the yarn in cold water with about 2 T of white vinegar, and covered the counter with a garbage bag while it soaked (it’s works nicely and we didn’t have any plastic wrap, which is what you’re supposed to use.) I then mixed my dyes with hot water, but they cooled down over the time I was dying. Probably not a big deal. Then it occured to me that the yarn might need to be hot, so I microwaved it for about 2 minutes, but that cooled down too. It’s the vinegar acid and the steaming afterward that sets the dye.
I spread out the yarn on the garbage bag and painted that dye on! I used a cheapie foam brush for the dye. I wasn’t too happy with the way it looked after I painted it, but the steaming was yet to come. I wrapped it in the garbage bag the long way, coiled it up like a cinnamon bun, and than put it in a steaming basket over boiling water. Once the water boiled, I turned the stove down to low for a half hour and let it steam.
I was a bit concerned about the garbage bag melting, but thankfully it didn’t. When I unwrapped the yarn it looked great! The steaming mellowed and blended the colors wonderfully!
the yarn I used
my set up for dying
soaking the yarn in cold water after steaming
the lovely finished yarn!